A Northerner’s Life in Indonesia
by Sophia Smith
Northern Life writer, Sophia Smith has enjoyed a year's sabbatical exploring 'down under', here she shares her last leg of her adventures...
Armed with a new-found sense of confidence from my time in Australia, I made a pitstop on my return to England in Indonesia for two weeks! There’s something a little different about this article; last year, you would find me writing away on a warm seaside, sending them over to my editor, Karen, who probably got an email through at 3 am when it was an afternoon for me! This time around, I’m typing away at my desk at Northern Life HQ…and it’s raining!
Myself and Niamh Franks, another Lancashire lass with whom I spent the year in Australia, began our journey in Ubud, Bali. As we stepped into the airport, we were already immersed in the Balinese culture as we watched locals do a traditional Balinese dance upon arrival. We had a one-hour journey to Ubud, which cost us around £10. There, we stayed in a room on the property of a Balinese family, looked after by Kutut, a family acquaintance who managed the accommodation for tourists.
“You weren’t sure where to direct your gaze, and you couldn’t put sunglasses on because they would just get stolen!”
The property had a garden inhabited by colourful parrots, and throughout the day, their two small children would cycle around the accommodation, filled with laughter and giggles. Kutut made it very clear he would love his tips in the form of cigarettes and wine. Ubud is deep in the greenery of Bali, ideal for long walks such as the Campuhan Ridge Walk that left us drenched in our sweat. We headed to the Monkey Sanctuary, where the staff insist you do not make eye contact with the monkeys. This became an arduous task as hundreds of them surrounded you. You weren’t sure where to direct your gaze, and you couldn’t put sunglasses on because they would just get stolen! Niamh had a keyring on her bag, and as soon as her back turned, a small monkey ripped it from her. Before we knew it, all hell broke loose as the monkeys attacked one another for the keyring.
At the monkey sanctuary
We used mopeds to get around, and each 15-minute ride set us back just 70 pence. Talk about budget-friendly.
One evening, we were drawn to the sound of karaoke echoing down the street. We followed the music and stumbled into a bar with the locals, no tourists in sight. Despite our less-than-stellar performance of Lily Allen, the locals cheered us on like we were headlining at Glastonbury.
“Then BAM! We hit a rock, and I was thrown out of the raft, losing my grip on the boat.”
On our final day in Ubud, we set off on a quad biking expedition through muddy trails, hidden waterfalls, and the local town. As always, in classic Sophia fashion, our morning couldn’t end without a hiccup. I crashed into the back of Niamh’s bike, leaving it unwilling to start up again. We had to tandem all the way back.
In the afternoon, we craved more chaos with water rafting. Everything seemed pleasant, with picturesque scenery surrounding us, striking waterfalls and views of local huts nestled among the trees. Then BAM! We hit a rock, and I was thrown out of the raft, losing my grip on the boat. I began to panic, as we all know about my prior near-death water incident in Australia. I flailed in the water, trying to keep my head above the surface; I couldn’t help but notice that my shoes had also decided to join me for an unexpected swim downstream. Talk about being a sole survivor. The group didn’t seem phased as they were in a fit of laughs, managing to grab my hands and pull me back onto the boat. I held on for dear life for the remaining two hours.
Water rafting (pre-panic)
The following day, we embarked on a one-hour journey to Sanur Harbor, leaving our suitcases in a locker for safekeeping and carrying just small backpacks for the week ahead. Boarding a fast boat, we braved 45 minutes of turbulent waves. Upon reaching Nusa Lembongan, an island off the eastern coast, we had to reach the land by jumping into the water. With no cars or conventional transport on the island, we set out to find our hostel on foot. The island was eerily quiet, very different to the usual hustle and bustle of the mainland.
“The following day, we decided to tackle surfing. I’m about as skilled on a surfboard as a cat on roller skates.”
As we arrived at the hostel, we encountered Emma from Scarborough, who quickly became a familiar face during our stay. There was a group of lads from Manchester; northerners took up the majority of the hostel, and it seems we have a knack for finding each other no matter where in the world we are! That evening, we ventured to witness the sunset at a spot known as Devil’s Tears, where the water crashed over rocky coves, sending plumes of sea spray into our faces.
The following day, we decided to tackle surfing. I’m about as skilled on a surfboard as a cat on roller skates. But my boyfriend, Dylan, practically a fish in the water, has surfed since he was four years old. I figured it was high time I joined him in the water. So, with a mix of fear, excitement and a healthy dose of beginner’s luck, I paddled out. He often describes the exhilaration of catching a wave, a feeling I never could understand until I experienced it first-hand.
Soph surfing
I can now admit that the rush you feel is truly euphoric, and it’s an experience I won’t soon forget. My parents even got me a wetsuit as a going-back gift!
The following day, we took a boat to Nusa Penida. The majestic Mount Agung Volcano came into view, its peak soaring against the sky. It last erupted in 2019; it was one of the most breathtaking landscapes I’ve ever seen. Me and Niamh got separated on the tour, probably the longest time we’ve spent apart in over a year. We explored the cliffs at Broken Beach, known locally as Pasih Uug, which is a circular cove of turquoise water. We explored Angel’s Billabong, a natural tidal pool, and Crystal Bay Beach, with the clearest blue water I have ever seen. Finally, Kelingking Beach reigns as the main attraction in Nusa Penida; you could barely catch a glimpse at the cliff that resembles a T-Rex with a frothy mouth due to the amount of scrambling tourists around!
The most popular drink among tourists is Bintang beer; there are also many other options, such as arak, a traditional Balinese liquor made from palm sap, and tuak, a fermented drink made from coconut. However, Bali’s drinks might come with a surprise that we were warned about and ignored: ice that could turn your travelling into a bathroom marathon, which is what it did to me on my last few days.
On our way back to the mainland, we met a family of dolphins swimming alongside the boat, something I had never seen in the flesh before. Everyone rushed to snap photos from the right side of the boat, but the photo op was cut short when a massive wave drenched us all.
On our last night, we took bikes to a bar an hour away; live bands played metal and rock music, people in a skate bowl, and roller skaters. To top it off, a man approached and offered to get me a tattoo, but the only catch? He got to pick the design. And after the year I’ve had, I thought, why not?
As Niamh flew off to Paris to catch up with her folks in France, I found myself on a lonely plane ride back to England. Despite the solitude, I had a chance to reminisce about the incredible experiences, people, and places I’ve encountered over the past 14 months, and this is just the tip of the iceberg.
NorthernLife June/July/Aug 24
