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A Northerner’s Life Down Under
by Sophia Smith
Northern Life writer Sophia Smith shares her adventures in Australia
G’day mate! I bet you didn’t expect to see my name again so soon. Typically, I’d be writing a story sitting at my desk in the Northern Life office. On this occasion, I’m writing away in the seaside town of St Kilda, Australia, with my new housemate, Joe, the rescue cat! Getting down here was a journey, literally and figuratively. This trip was not only the greatest decision of my life thus far, but it has taught me the most significant lessons in life.
As a child, you were always told not to talk to strangers. As a backpacker, defying that advice is the best thing you could possibly do while roaming the world. Whether it’s the kindness of a stranger giving you a place to kip for a few nights or just travelling tips and new friends, the tide changes when you become a traveller!
What has only been three months has felt like a lifetime already, from France to Thailand to Australia. There have been times when I have felt on top of the world, shouting, ‘I’m never coming home!’ And also, times I have been texting my parents, in a high state of anxiety, wishing I could jump on the next flight back to Colne, Lancashire. The unexpected is so nerve-wracking, but the unfamiliar is becoming much more familiar to me each week. Not knowing where we will fly next or if we have a bed to sleep in the following evening!
My journey first began with a long drive down to Portsmouth Docks, courtesy of my travel buddy, Niamh Franks, and parents, Trish and Nick. Before setting sail on the ferry to France, we had one last pit stop: Wetherspoons – what better place to stop than an iconic, affordable British staple?
Once arriving on French soil, Nick drove us hours to their home in Glomel, a small picturesque village full of charm. We spent two weeks with our wonderful tour guides in their traditional French country house with its cosy interior and rustic green gardens. Inside their garage were Nick and Trish’s classic VW camper and a collection of vintage French bikes, which we used to ride along the Brittany canals.
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Nick and Trish’s classic VW camper
From Glomel, we caught a train across to Paris, where we spent the weekend with friends from home who had flown to see us for the last time in a long while, eating delicious French delicacies and the obvious tourist trip to see the Eiffel Tower.
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Sophia in Paris
After our short but sweet weekend in Paris, we flew to Muscat and then to Bangkok, the home of the backpacker herd in the South East. This place was a kaleidoscope of experiences, some more shocking than others. Our hostel was next to the famous Khaosan Road, the place to be for budget travellers like ourselves, with its partying, cheap food and booze! The bustling streets of Thailand were jam-packed with restaurants, bars, and brightly-lit paths. But travellers turn a blind eye to the small children, homeless on the streets and overall poverty of the country, which certainly leaves a long-lasting impact.
I FELT LIKE I HAD BEEN THROWN INTO A LABYRINTH OF ENDLESS MARKET STALLS UNABLE TO RECOGNISE EVEN ONE TYPE OF FOOD
You don’t need to walk far to have the authentic tastes of Thailand; we spent the week eating Pad Thai, noodles and curries which all came equivalent to £1 for a meal. We took a boat along the river to Chinatown, where you could find crunchy and protein-rich treats – barbecued crocodiles, fried scorpions, grasshoppers, and cockroaches. Only the bravest of hearts would try these. Unfortunately, I was too afraid, but I ‘take my hat’ off to our hostel friends who chewed on spiders like it was their first meal in a week, and for hostel goers, it probably was! I felt like I had been thrown into a labyrinth of endless market stalls, unable to recognise even one type of food being sold.
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Oodles of noodles
On one of the final nights in Bangkok, we went on a rendezvous with our new buddies. We jumped on a tuk-tuk, probably the cheapest transport option in Bangkok. Our tuk-tuk driver decided to illegally race down the hectic roads swaying us side to side with no seat belts. We arrived in one piece at the tourist hotspot and the infamous Ping ong show; need I say any more about that?
It was not for the faint-hearted. It was also so easy to find people to continue travels with – north to Chiang Mai, south to Malaysia, or east towards Cambodia or Vietnam. Asia is definitely a place I would love to go back to experience properly and travel with next-level carefree backpackers.
We touched down in Australia, a place of laid-back attitudes. For Australians, a stranger is just a mate you haven’t met yet. In England, I would say, “You okay?” to ask how someone is, but if you ask an Aussie, their response is typically shocked, “What do you mean, am I okay? Do I not look ok?” It’s usually, “How ya going” or “G’day mate.”
The country is massive! To put this into perspective, it is about the size of Europe. Yes, really. If you put a map of Australia over a map of Europe, it covers the whole thing. We first arrived in Melbourne, or as the Aussies call it, ‘Melbin’. The hub of the city’s street art scene, the graffiti-covered alleys are an influencer’s paradise. We stayed in hostels and affordable Airbnb whilst we visited the Botanic Gardens, museums, libraries, Victoria markets and beaches. One of the most incredible trips was the Great Ocean Road, home to some of the best sights in the Victorian state, including the instantly recognisable 12 Apostles, the ancient Great Otway National Park, beaches, quaint towns, and endless waterfalls. After spending weeks in Melbourne, we jumped on a flight up to the Sunshine Coast to Alexandra Headland, known to the locals as ‘Alex’, a coastal community in Queensland. Alex is located on a beautiful spot on what is known as the Sunshine Strip – sitting between Mooloolaba and Maroochydore.
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Niamh and Sophia
The town, with its relaxed atmosphere and inviting beaches, is a popular spot for surfers; there would be around 50 at a time! There, we spent two weeks in a beach house and every day swimming in the beautiful blue ocean; what a life, eh? I haven’t had a surf lesson yet, but I have had a free ride on one, to save my life!
NOW I HAVEN’T HAD A SURF LESSON JUST YET, BUT I HAVE HAD A FREE RIDE ON ONE, TO SAVE MY LIFE
Keeping between the flag guidelines in the sea, a huge riptide dragged us out into the ocean. Even though we laugh about it now, I remember looking at Niamh thinking this was going to be my last moment after losing all energy trying to get back near shore. Suddenly a lifeguard turned up next to me, shouting at me to jump on his surfboard, and I shouted, spluttering, swallowing sea water, “But I’m British! I don’t know how to even get onto the surfboard!” I’m still a little afraid to get back into the water.
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Surf’s up!
Before heading back to Melbourne, we took a visit up to Noosa for the women’s surf competition weekend. The beating heart of Noosa Heads is Hastings Street, this hip and happening street was an essential stopover. Home to chic stores, art galleries and cafes. At night time, we would stroll down the boardwalk while listening to the crashing waves. But this fairytale spot wasn’t too great for our wallets as it was so expensive!
Despite being all the way across the world, Australia is a country that has many of the comforts of home. Don’t be fooled into thinking the whole of Oz has 365 days of sweltering heat – the upcoming winter in Melbourne is becoming a chilly affair and is known for having four seasons in one day; this is true! Every Australian we meet also finds it hilarious to mimic our Lancastrian accent, ‘oreet!’. We even stayed at an Australian friend’s house who had imported Yorkshire Tea! I have yet to find a chip butty or a cheese and onion pie in Australia, but I guess they can’t have everything!
Apart from our new neighbours, huntsman spiders, koalas, snakes and penguins, compared to the Lancashire sheep and rabbits, we’re still yet to see a kangaroo! There’s still plenty more for us to see along the way, like the clear blue barrier reef and the red sands of Uluru, but that’s a catch-up for next time!
NorthernLife May/June 23